What Are Light-Spreaders?

!±8± What Are Light-Spreaders?

Indoor hydroponic gardeners want to know the truth about light spreaders and whether or not they work. Light spreaders are supposed to diffuse heat and evenly distribute the light from horizontal high intensity discharge lighting systems.

To begin, people often confuse a reflector with a spreader. The reflector is usually adjustable and sits above your lighting fixture. It's designed to keep light that would normally be wasted because it's heading up, away from the plants, to instead be reflected down toward your garden's canopy.

On the other hand, a light spreader slides on over the mogul base and hangs below the light. It's made to diffuse the hot spot directly below your HID bulb. Furthermore, it's supposed to help your plants on the edges of the grow room receive more light. It does this by spreading the usable light father and more evenly.

Although people report mixed results using various light spreaders, there does seem to be a lot of support for the Super Spreader. Since it reduces heat intensity by reflection, you can normally get your lights closer to your plants. Of course, the closer your lights, the better; so long as you can keep the heat down.

Also, if you have good airflow around your lamp, the Super Spreader actually acts as a cooling fin, further reducing temperatures in your garden.

Only consider investing in a light spreader if you're already using a reflector. Between the two, the reflector is more important. However, combining both is a great option if plants on the edges of your grow room are shaded or if plants directly below your HID bulb are getting burned.

What Are Light-Spreaders?

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Types of Light Bulbs

!±8± Types of Light Bulbs

Light bulbs refer primarily to Incandescent lamps that were introduced in the early 1900's to replace Gas and Carbon Arc lighting. Incandescent "Bulbs" were used to light homes, commercial businesses, industrial businesses and street lamps. Incandescent bulbs became very inexpensive when produced in high quantities but were inefficient in terms of a short life and produced low lumens per watt. They had to be replaced fairly quickly in commercial and industrial applications and it took a lot of lamps to provide sufficient lighting.

Incandescent bulbs were the mainstay of the lighting industry until the need to improve light quality and efficiency was met with the introduction of the more energy efficient Mercury Vapor bulbs, the first High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamp. Mercury Vapor lamps replaced Incandescent bulbs in street lighting, commercial, and industrial applications because of higher lumens per watt (33-65 LPW) and a 24,000 hour rated life, but Incandescent light bulbs remained the primary residential lighting source because of their soft light and high color rendering index (CRI) of 100. Mercury lamps had a CRI of 25-40 which made it difficult to distinguish colors and had a low visual acuity.

Light bulb design has always been driven by the need for higher efficiency but the introduction of High Intensity Discharge Light Bulbs introduced the concept of task lighting; variable color temperatures and high color rendering HID lamps that were not only efficient but could be used in very specific lighting applications. The following Color Temperature and Color Rendering Index chart may be helpful in explaining what these terms actually mean.

Color Temperature is a measure of the color of the light produced by the lamp. The lower the color temperature, the warmer and more yellow or pink the light will appear. The higher the color temperature the more white and blue/white in appearance. Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin (K) as referenced below:

6500°K - Noon-day Sunlight 5000°K - Daylight 4200°K - Cool White Fluorescent 4000°K - Standard Clear Metal Halide 3700°K - Standard Coated Metal Halide 3000°K - Early morning Sunlight; Warm White Fluorescent 2700°K - Standard Incandescent 2200°K - High Pressure Sodium 1800°K - Low Pressure Sodium

Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a measurement of how well colors are perceived under a given light source. Sunlight is the standard for CRI and is rated at 100. The lower the CRI, the poorer colors will appear.

100 - Tungsten Halogen and Incandescent 90-85 - Full Spectrum Metal Halide and T8 and T5 Fluorescent 80-75 - Standard T8 and T5 Fluorescent and Daylight Metal Halide 70 - Coated Metal Halide 65 - Standard Metal Halide 40 - Coated Mercury Vapor 22-25 - Clear Mercury Vapor and High Pressure Sodium 0 - Low Pressure Sodium

The introduction of Metal Halide Light Bulbs and fluorescent Light Bulbs combined the art of lighting variations and the science of efficient light sources.

T12 Fluorescent light bulbs replaced Mercury in commercial applications because of the higher efficiency of 3000 lumens per lamp and 68 LPW, longer life and a greater selection of color temperatures. T12 Fluorescent Bulbs are now being replaced by T8 Fluorescent bulbs that feature 3050 lumens per lamp and 95 LPW, and T5 Fluorescent Bulbs that feature 5000 lumens per lamp and 92 LPW. T8 and T5 bulbs are also available in 3000K, 3100K, 3500K, 4100K, 5000K and 6500K color temperatures and 85-90 CRI. T8 and T5 fluorescent linear lamps are used in residential, commercial and industrial applications and 3000°K, 5000°K and 6500°K are also used as indoor light for plant growth applications.

Compact Fluorescent Bulbs (CFL) feature an E26 medium base and will directly replace Incandescent Light Bulbs; a 100W Incandescent Light bulb is replaced with a 27W CFL Light Bulb at a 73W savings. If every residence in the USA replaced all Incandescent Light Bulbs with CFL Light Bulbs we would dramatically reduce our energy consumption. CFL Light bulbs reduce energy costs, have a longer life and are available in 2700, 3100, 3500, 4100, 5100, and 6500 Kelvin temperatures. CFL lamps are also available with a mogul base for commercial and industrial applications.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS) light bulbs were designed to replace mercury Vapor in street lighting and area lighting applications where energy efficiency and higher lumen output was required and they continue to serve those applications. A 400W HPS lamp produces 125 LPW versus 68 LPW for Mercury Vapor. HPS not only reduced energy costs but a 24,000 hour rated life was equal to Mercury Vapor and as result did not increase normal maintenance costs. 3000°K HPS bulbs are also used for Horticulture flowering and fruiting lighting applications.

Standard Metal Halide Light Bulbs were the direct replacement for Mercury Vapor Light Bulbs and HPS light bulbs in commercial, industrial and sports lighting applications where white light was required.. A standard 400W Metal Halide Bulb produces 90 LPW compared to 68 LPW for Mercury Vapor. A higher color temperature and CRI also increased the visual acuity of each application making it easier to see and read under Metal Halide lighting. The resulting higher lumens reduced the number of fixtures previously used in a Mercury Vapor application and saved energy. One 400W Metal Halide bulb will replace the light output of 40 lineal feet of T12 fluorescent lamps. Metal Halide bulbs are the "White Light" lighting source.

Types of Light Bulbs

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Choosing the Correct Glass Lamp Shade

!±8± Choosing the Correct Glass Lamp Shade

There are many styles and sizes of glass shades, many of which are standard. It can be initially confusing trying to figure out the right size and style for your particular fixture or lamp, but here are some guidelines that will assist you in making the right choice.

First tip: Always take measurements from outside edge to outside edge as this is how glass sizes are classified.

Second tip: Remember that glass is undersize. What does this mean? If the glass is classified as a 2 1/4", or a 7", the actual measurement of the glass will be slightly less than its stated size.

The first step is to determine how your glass is held in place.

1. Does the glass sit on a table lamp or chandelier that has a round ring or tripod? You probably want a Student shade. Measure the ring, outside edge to outside edge. Standard sizes are 5", 6", 7", 8", 10", 12" and 14". There is often a place for a chimney to sit within the larger ring. Again, measure that holder, outside edge to outside edge.

2. Is the glass held in place by three screws and does it have a slightly flared neck? If so, measure the cup or holder, outside edge to outside edge.

* If the holder measures just over 2 1/4", you are looking for 2 1/4" fitter shades.

* If the holder measures just over 3 1/4" or 4", you are looking for 3 1/4" or 4" fitter shades. Both sizes come in two styles: either enclosed globes or open shades.

* Glass with 6", 8" and 10" fitters are also available in enclosed globe styles.

3. Do you have a table lamp that has a brass or glass bottom and the glass sits on a ring with no screws? You may be looking for a Gone With The Wind globe. The ring will measure just over 4" and the globe will have a straight neck that just sits on the ring. There is usually a smaller holder for a Chimney within the larger 4' ring.

4. Does your glass have a fairly flat opening with no distinct neck? Do you put it on the lamp or fixture around the light bulb socket and then screw a ring around the threaded part of the protruding socket? If so, you are looking for a Neckless shade. Most of these shades have a 1 5/8" opening.

5. Floor lamps can be very confusing. We have found the most common types to be as follows:

* If your lamp is newer, and you need a glass with a 1 5/8"-1 7/8" opening, you may need a Neckless shade. The shade is placed on the lamp around the bulb socket, and a ring generally threads around the part of the socket that protrudes.

* Shades on older floor lamps, called Torchieres, have a longish neck that measures 2 3/4" which fits around an oversize Mogul light bulb socket.

* There is also a very popular floor lamp, dating from the 1950"s, that looks like a torchiere but uses a different type of glass. If your floor lamp has a holder with screws, it will not take the older torchiere style. You need what is called an IES Diffuser glass shade. Often the IES shade supports a fabric shade. IES Diffusers come in three standard sizes: 2 1/4" fitter with a 6" top diameter, 2 1/4" fitter with an 8" top diameter, and 2 7/8" fitter with a 10" top diameter.

6. Chimneys usually sit within several prongs or inside of a round gallery. Again, measure outside edge to outside edge to determine the correct size.

7. Hurricane glass is commonly used on chandeliers and wall sconces. The holder or cup will measure about 1 3/4" outside edge to outside edge. The glass itself is called a 1 5/8" fitter, although the actual measurement is closer to 1 1/2".

Hopefully these tips will help you in determining the proper glass shade for your lamp or fixture. Good luck! Tania Maxwell

Choosing the Correct Glass Lamp Shade

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Antique Floor Lamps - World's Best Reading Lamps

!±8± Antique Floor Lamps - World's Best Reading Lamps

First let us define ANTIQUE FLOOR LAMP. Of course a floor lamp normally rests upon the floor as opposed to resting upon a table, the wall or the ceiling. The general definition of an ANTIQUE means something from a bygone era. This places the term outside the legal arena and into common usage. "Era" is general perceived and is defined as a long indefinite time period which also works out perfectly for this general definition. This general definition works perfectly since any identification of an "Antique Floor Lamp" is fairly useless without some time period designation normally in the form of circa 1905 which literally means "about the year 1905". So I will use the term ANTIQUE FLOOR LAMP on this basis and often substitute it with the term VINTAGE FLOOR LAMP. This discussion does not address modern reproductions of antique lamps which is another subject to itself.

More and more people are learning to appreciate the quality and styling of antique floor lamps especially as most of the ones being produced today are molded plastic and literally made to be thrown away. Most all floor lamp makers from the turn of the century made their lamps from heavy metals such as cast iron, brass, steel and cast zinc sometimes combined with marble, onyx, glass and stone. Our lamp shop regularly restores these antique floor lamps for resale as well as for our customers' own use. From our 30 years of experience it is clear that many of these antique floor lamps will last for hundreds of years. The electrical components, the fabric shades and the painted finishes often need restoration but most were made with such fine quality, that they are a much better value than brand new high end lamps that sell for many hundreds of dollars. You will find some other surprises about these collectible works of art below.

High quality, beauty and function were powerful influences on the makers of antique floor lamps. Many people are aware of their outstanding quality and beauty but completely surprised about the highly developed functional and technical characteristics. There are far too many examples to list here but I will mention a couple of the more important ones.

The brightest lamp that you can purchase today in any store was designed and made circa 1920. It is also the most versatile lamp that you can buy anywhere. Further it will outlast most any modern lamp that you can find at any price. This antique floor lamp is known by a numerous names such as: 6 Way Floor Lamp, Reflector Floor Lamp, and "JUNIOR". The design begins with a heavy metal base sometimes highly decorated with an upright tubing leading up to a central electrical socket surrounded by 3 arm lights (4 lights total). The central light takes a 3 way bulb (low-medium-high) that is often a MOGUL size which is larger than a standard socket with higher wattage (100-200-300 watts). The three arm lights are controlled by a switch that can turn on separately just 1, 2 or all 3 of the arm lights. Further, many of these JUNIORS had a small light under the base which provided a very subtle night time floor light operated by a foot switch mounted on the side of the base. As if this were not enough, the central top socket is encased in a large metal cup which holds a white waffle patterned glass bowl that reflects light upward to bounce of the ceiling. A fabric or silk shade (also called JUNIOR shade) rests upon the glass reflector bowl to reflect light downward for reading. A single arm light can provide a simple night light or at it brightest setting, it can light up an entire room. There is no brighter lamp or more versatile lamp available anywhere today and it was designed and made nearly 100 years ago!

One of the best reading lamps in the world was also designed circa 1920. It has been highly imitated but it still remains unchallenged. The Bridge Arm Floor Lamp or Bridge Lamp has a typical floor lamp design with metal base and upright standard which can take the form of various types of decorated tubing, twisted iron rods, etc. At the top of the standard is a decorative cast metal arm with a graceful arc or curvature which ends with an electrical socket pointing downward and covered by a fabric or glass shade. This has the effect of offsetting the light by about 14-18" from the upright standard at the same time lowering it so that it is closer to the reading material or work project. The result is an excellent reading lamp or work lamp which places the light bulb very near the task at hand. Many of these Bridge Arm Floor Lamps have convenient pull chains which hang below the bottom of the lamp shade for ease of operation.

Of course there are many other kinds of antique floor lamps such as torchiere, two light, curved arm, swing arm, etc. Even the oldest and most dilapidated of these well built heirlooms can be brought back to life with some scrubbing, sanding, painting, rewiring and sometimes soldering or welding.

If you want to buy a lamp that you can give to your grand kids, consider buying an antique floor lamp.

- Jim Hoyle

Antique Floor Lamps - World's Best Reading Lamps

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